As a child, ballet was everything to Annie Johnson—and though the other kids always asked her to help them with their stage makeup, Johnson gave little thought to the very thing that would eventually become her career. After graduating from high school early, Johnson left her hometown of East Lansing, Michigan to work with Broadway Dance Center in NYC. 

Twenty years later Johnson has left dance behind. Today, she is a seasoned makeup artist whose recent work on Sean Baker’s Palme d’Or Award-winning Anora is getting the attention it deserves. The film tells the story of Ani (Mikey Madison), a sex worker from Brooklyn whose life is upended when she meets and marries the son of a Russian oligarch. In Anora, makeup is so clearly a crucial element in character study. In the beginning, Ani uses makeup as a mask, and eventually, as her character transforms, that mask is stripped away, exposing a vulnerability that is vital to the story. 

Like much of Sean Baker’s work, the looks in the film were largely naturalistic but—of course—Johnson executed even the subtlest of makeup cues with intentionality and much care for each character’s journey. We sat down with Johnson to learn more about the making of Anora and the role New York City played in her own transformation story, from dancer to the makeup department head of one of this year’s most talked about films. 

The makeup artist Annie Johnson. Photography Kevin Scanlon.

Why did you leave dance for a career in film?

I had a slew of injuries from dancing pretty early on in New York. Meanwhile, I got a bartending gig at a rock club on the Bowery in Manhattan called Crash Mansion. Film was never on my radar but I knew I didn’t want to bartend forever. I also missed having a creative outlet. I spent about a decade bartending there and every night I would go wild with my makeup. One night, a customer said to me, “You should be a makeup artist!” I enrolled in makeup school shortly after. I ended up just falling into film!

What have been some of your favorite projects to work on?

My favorite projects to work on have been where I’ve been able to think outside the box and collaborate with the directors. Anora was a dream project for me simply because of the collaboration between departments and the creative allowance director Sean Baker gave us. He put so much trust in us as artists and allowed us to do our jobs to create the final product you see on the screen. The dynamic that Sean and his wife Samantha Quan create on set is really something that I’ve never experienced before. They always want you to know that there is an open line of communication and there is no hierarchy. I really admire and look up to them.

How did you first get involved with Anora?

My best friend Jocelyn Pierce was hired as costume designer. She gave me a call and said that there was this movie that Sean was about to film and they were looking for a makeup department head. In a few short words she told me the premise. I internally freaked out and told her that I had to have this job and to put my name in the mix but to not make me seem desperate. I loved Sean’s work and wanted the job even before I was hired. Jocelyn and I had worked on a film a couple of years prior and I knew it was going to be immaculate if we were both on this. There is something creatively electric on set between Joss and I.

The hair tinsel has been getting quite a bit of attention! How involved was the makeup department in that decision?

I have to give Justine Sierakowski full credit for the hair tinsel idea. We threw about a billion ideas and mood boards off of each other in pre-production after seeing Sean and Jocelyn’s boards and that was one of them. She asked me if it was stupid and I was like, “Absolutely not, let’s send it to Sean.” After Sean saw the tinsel in action at the camera test, he was like “I love this, let’s do it.” He was so open to trusting us with helping form the look of Ani and really gave us free creative reign. We had a blast doing it.

How do you usually approach creating a character and with Anora in particular, what did you want to say about the character of “Ani” through the look you created?

Awesome question! Although the makeup may look relatively simple to the viewer, there was so much planning and continuity that went into that character, as well as all of the characters. 

Our HMU swing, Callie Filion, did such an amazing job helping me track continuity and being on set to keep eyes on our actors. I broke that script down to pieces and had conversations with Mikey Madison about the look of Ani. She was quintessential in helping form the look of Ani and we worked hand in hand throughout filming, sometimes even making last minute decisions on the spot about the character’s look. Mikey was amazing to work with. I really got attached to the character and that makeup look throughout filming. There were so many moving parts to Ani’s look, including the stages of beauty makeup, the degradation of makeup, the face scratch, the bruises, the back of leg tattoos and the body makeup. I knew I needed to nail it.

Aside from a few scenes in Vegas, the film takes place largely in NYC. Did the city itself play any particular role in how you approached the makeup? 

We had a bunch of fun makeup looks for Vegas that actually didn’t end up making it in the film! The backdrop of New York City is such a compliment to any makeup, especially when you’re shooting on actual film. One of the reasons that I was so excited to work with Sean is that likes to keep his characters looking like real people. I was so happy to work with someone who told me to keep the shine on people’s faces and I used very limited powder throughout the duration. There is nothing more New York than real people looking like real people and embracing everyone’s individuality. I rarely touched any of the background during the entire film, as I wanted them to look as accurate to the time and space as possible. Some of my favorite scenes in the film are ones where we are using tons of extras that came with their own hair and makeup looks, like the baptism or at Tatiana (in Brighton Beach).

What are some of your go-to places for beauty buys and makeup goodies in NYC? 

I’m loyal to Alcone and Manhattan Wardrobe Supply! They have everything to fill a pro makeup kit and more, and the people that work there are so nice. They are go-tos of mine. We sent Mikey out to Akiko Nails in LES for her iconic butterfly nails. She was there on her days off getting her nails filled. The nail techs there did such a fantastic job.

From a makeup perspective, what does NYC beauty look like to you?

New York is so unique and so many looks are welcomed here. You can walk down the street with no makeup, over-the-top makeup, a mask—anything you want, and people will compliment you. If you want inspiration for makeup, look no further than the streets of NYC. I like to call it the “I don’t give a damn” look, meaning having so much confidence in yourself that you can rock whatever kind of style or makeup you want and go flaunt it on the streets of New York. I love this city.

Who are your NYC beauty icons?

I will try to fit this answer into a manageable paragraph because there are so many! Chloe Sevigny. Full stop. No explanation needed. I love Janeane Garofalo’s raw and edgy NYC style. I’m working on a couple of projects with her right now and she is just the most beautiful person ever, inside and out. My long-time dear friend Steve Lewis posts all of these amazing NYC nightlife photos on his Facebook that I love looking at, and he used to run Limelight and Tunnel. New York City club makeup looks were absolutely iconic back then. Lastly, my sister Molly. She is the ultimate NYC beauty icon in my opinion. She and her husband Paul run an amazing jazz and supper club on the Upper West Side called Smoke. 

What are you working on next?

The industry has been so slow, but I feel very fortunate to have been able to work through the slow period. As for any upcoming projects, my calendar is open and I would love another project on the books! I also hope to work with Sean again in the future. Anora is really something special, and I feel truly grateful to have been part of such a phenomenally talented and hardworking cast and crew.

WORDS Hillary Sproul

PHOTOGRAPHY Mikey Madison as Ani and Mark Eydelshteyn as Ivan. Courtesy of NEON_Hero